You would spend the weekend at Ryokan Kurashiki (a traditional Japanese inn) in a beautiful suite, feeling the history surrounding you. There are two wonderfully prepared meals; on at the Ryokan and the other at a nearby restaurant arranged by Ritsuko-san, the lovely manager. She would also arranges for you to visit a local family-run sake brewery and meet a wonderful ceramic artist in addition to a scenic walking tour of Kurashiki. Next morning, after a nourishing breakfast it’s time to begin your pilgrimage.

Your personal driver-guide and interpreter would pick you up and drive you across the beautiful Seto-Sea bridge to Shikoku Island. Your “Ohenro” experience starts with a series of temples located about an hour’s drive from the capital city of Takamatsu. Your guide will provide you with the traditional Ohenro white jacket, walking stick, and neck sash used for Ohenro and shows you the bound books you will use to collect the stamps and calligraphy at each temple. As you approach the first temple, Iyadani, your guide shows you how to bow at the main gate, and then walks you through the suggested steps to be a proper pilgrim.

You visit several more temples within walking distance, repeat the gestures and chants at each and enjoy a stroll through the villages and rice fields separating them from each other. You arrive at the final temple, Zentsu-Ji, after 5pm. Of the dozen or so temples you’ll visit over the next few days, Zentsuji is the most important as it’s the birthplace of Kobo Daishi, the monk who originally brought Shingon Buddhism to Japan. That night, you stay at the humble but comfortable Shukubo lodging provided only to pilgrims by the temple. After the luxurious nights in Kurashiki it feels basic indeed, but is also an entirely authentic experience as you are served a simple healthy meal in the dining hall surrounded by fellow pilgrims. An early night awaits so you can rise early to join the special morning chanting service with the head abbot and his monks open only to temple guests.

After breakfast, you set off to explore several temples in a heavily forested part of the island. You hike through dense pines and alongside rushing rivers and waterfalls, passing by small shrines and Jizo statues, all of which remind you where you are. The walking is strenuous but never dangerous. You stop for an incredible lunch at a restored farmhouse in what feels like the middle of nowhere. Thoroughly satiated, you can welcome the afternoon’s walking and visit several more scenic mountain temples.

That night, to offset the simplicity of the night before, you are able to stay at the gorgeous Kotohira Kadan, a sprawling ryokan with natural hot springs and several private “villas”. You’re given the largest in which to stay and await an incredible experience. Here you can feel like Japanese royalty, surrounded by a fabulous art collection, a huge private soaking bath, wonderful views, and the most delicious dinner so far.

Over the next two days you continue to walk through pastoral scenes, visit temples large and small, and are free to spend the nights at welcoming and charming inns, including one with a private Noh theater where you meet the master and learn the history of this mysterious art form. Each day brings new sights, new people, and a deeper understanding of both nature and Buddhism. When the pilgrimage comes to an end, you seriously consider extending your stay... but settle for the promise of a return trip in the future, and the lure of an entirely different pilgrimage in another part of this unforgettable island.